A landlocked country framed in the Caucasus Mountains, Armenia has long been trapped within a tough neighbourhood.
Bordering Turkey to the west, Iran to the south, and Azerbaijan to the south and east, with Russia looming in the distance, this international cul-de-sac in the Caucasus was plagued by political, cultural and religious troubles for generations.
Despite the odds, Armenians have proven resilient, with a fierce dedication to protecting their unique culture and wine heritage, proudly shared with visitors willing to make the trek.
The past is the present
Armenia is a land of superlatives: it was the world’s first Christian nation in 301 A.D. (Georgia followed circa 326 A.D.), maintains one of the oldest languages with a continuous written tradition, and claims the oldest winery so far discovered – at 6,100 years of age. Winemaking runs deep in Armenia, predating the Silk Road.
Though Georgia may have legitimate claims to the tagline ‘cradle of wine’, which it trademarked (in the EU) in 2012, both countries share similarities not just in their vinous legacy but in their dizzying array of indigenous grapes and use of clay amphora (called karas in Armenia and qvevri in Georgia). Yet each followed a different path, not necessarily by choice, to arrive at its modern wine story, resulting in disparate wines and tourism experiences.
The invasion of the Soviet Red Army in 1920 would be the greatest defining factor of Armenia’s 20th-century wine industry. The country was merged with Georgia into the Transcaucasian Socialist Federative Soviet Republic in 1922. In 1936, it became the Armenian Soviet Socialist Republic or Soviet Armenia.
The Soviets abolished private enterprise and nationalised industries by forcing republics into economic roles. Georgia specialised in wine production, while Armenia’s grapes were earmarked for brandy distillation. Vineyards sprung up in poor locations to increase volume, while others faced neglect or abandonment.
Since gaining independence in 1991, Armenia’s wine industry has witnessed a renaissance, partly driven by the return of the Armenian diaspora. Winemakers driven by quality have catapulted Armenia into the global wine scene, earning the country its own tagline: the youngest oldest wine industry in the world.
In the last two decades, Armenia has lured renowned ‘flying winemakers’ to its traditions and potential, with luminaries such as Michel Rolland, Paul Hobbs and Alberto Antonini contributing their expertise. From the vineyards of Karas in Armavir to Yacoubian and Zorah in Vayots Dzor, these collaborations signify the sincerity of Armenia’s aspirations.
For a small country, Armenia boasts diverse topography and terroir. The country has catalogued more than 400 indigenous grape varieties. However, its bona fides as a historical winemaking country are interwoven with its tradition of karas amphorae. These large clay vessels, almost lost to the annals of time in the 20th century, have staged a comeback since the mid-2000s.
Traditionally, winemakers bury two-thirds of these amphorae underground, providing natural temperature control, a method employed over 3,000 years ago in the Kingdom of Urartu.
Today, as more wineries experiment with the karas method, Armenia carves a niche as a guardian of its traditions while pushing the boundaries of contemporary wine styles.
Armenian wine regions
Armenia has six historical wine-growing regions, including Artsakh. Today, the country has five: Vayots Dzor, Aragatsotn, Armavir, Ararat, and Tavush. Of those five, the first three offer the best opportunities for fine wine, sightseeing, and hospitality.
NOA Wine in Vayots Dzor. Credit: Lauren Mowery
Vayots Dzor
Vayots Dzor, located along a south-central swath of narrow plateau, elevated Armenia’s international reputation for quality wine. Winemaker Vahe Keushguerian dubbed it the Mendoza of Armenia.
The key grapes grown here are Areni for red and sparkling and Voskehat for white. Many compare Areni to a fuller-bodied Pinot Noir or a slimmed-down Grenache for its red fruit aromas, lively acidity and silky tannins. Agile Voskehat, known for floral, citrus, orchard fruit notes, produces clean and bright styles and savoury textural wines, especially when aged in karas.
Many wineries in Armenia buy grapes from Vayots Dzor because grapes thrive in the region’s volcanic soils and cooler climate. Viticulture in the region remained unbroken during the Soviet era, as it was deemed too far away and too cold to bother sourcing grapes for brandy. These same features have protected vines from phylloxera. Vineyards are planted on their own roots at high elevations, some vineyards nearing 1,800 metres above sea level.
Visually, Vayots Dzor features a striking topography of mountains and valleys. The wines mirror that grandeur in quality, complexity and age-worthiness. Though only a few wineries have visitor facilities, it’s worth making a day trip or spending the night for a few experiences.
NOA Wine in Aghavnadzor offers a rustic tasting experience better suited to the countryside than a contemporary winery. A vine-covered pergola shades a stone patio with views of the mountains framing leafy vineyards. NOA produces wine from 100% estate-grown, organic fruit which visitors can taste by appointment. Staff welcome guests with Armenia’s trademark hospitality: a picnic table covered in tangy local cheeses, fresh cucumbers and tomatoes from Ararat Valley, aromatic herbs such as purple basil, and lavash, a traditional flatbread used for rolling ‘sandwiches’.
Near NOA sit two of the region’s prime attractions: the Areni-1 wine cave complex and the 13th-century Noravank monastery. Regarded as the oldest known winery in the world, Areni-1 was excavated after archaeologists discovered human skulls and a Copper Age leather shoe. Visitors pay a small fee for the tour, while the monastery, perched dramatically on an ochre-hued cliff deep in a valley, is free.
Back in Yerevan, hit the bars of Saryan Street to taste wines from Vayots Dzor. Look for the traditional method sparkling wines from Keush and still dry reds and whites from Zulal, both made by Vahe Keushguerian. Keushguerian, a champion of indigenous grapes, has helped revitalise and modernise the wine industry, while serving as an international ambassador for the country. Other premium boutique brands to seek include Yacoubian-Hobbs and Zorah.
Noravank monastery. Credit: Lauren Mowery
Aragatsotn
Located in the northwest corner of the country, Aragatsotn (meaning ‘foot of Aragats’) has received significant investment in recent years, both in expanding vineyards and constructing modern wineries. Coupled with its proximity to Yerevan, Aragatsotn presents an attractive day trip option. Compared to Vayots Dzor, vineyards sit at significantly lower elevations ranging from 1,100-1,400 metres above sea level. Most of the soil is volcanic, the result of ancient lava flows from Mount Aragats. The main grapes grown in Aragatsotn include Areni, Voskehat plus Rkatsiteli, and the more obscure Kangun, Haghtanak and Karmrahyut. Two wine and hospitality experiences stand out in Aragatsotn: Van Ardi and Voskevaz Winery.
Founded in 2008, Van Ardi enjoys views of Mount Aragats in the distance. Guests can sit on the patio with a lunch of lake trout or lamb paired with Syrah (grown from California cuttings), Areni, Voskehat and Kangun, a local white grape with floral and tropical aromas.
The family behind Voskevaz renovated the oldest functioning winery in Armenia, dating to 1932, into an ersatz medieval village. Tour the old tank rooms, now a museum, filled with Soviet-era relics and antiques. Voskevaz makes excellent wines, specialising in karas-aged old-vine Voskehat and Areni.
Voskevaz Winery in Aragatsotn. Credit: Lauren Mowery
Armavir
In the fertile Ararat plain due west of Yerevan sits Armavir. At 900-1,100 metres, the ruddy, semi-desert landscape speaks to the climate: sunbaked and dry. In peak summer, temperatures can reach 48°C. Meanwhile, plummeting mercury in winter forces wineries to bury vines. It’s a harsh landscape for fine wine, and much of the grape crop funnels to the brandy industry.
Rising from the volcanic soil near the Turkish border sits the modern glass and steel façade of Karas Wines. Founded in 2000, the Argentine-Armenian owners, also winemakers in Patagonia, invited Michel Rolland to help establish the brand. Karas has since grown into an international company.
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